SAME DAY MALIK’S PASSING
THIS IS A SHOT OF MY LAST WAVE THE SAME DAY THAT MALIK PASSED AWAY. HERE IS A WAVE DAVE WASSEL AND I SHARED. DAVE IS A PRO SURFER AND A CITY AND COUNTY LIFE GUARD ON THE NORTH SHORE. HE HAS HELPED SAVE MANY LIVES. WHAT A ADMIRABLE JOB! DAVE IS A REALLY GREAT GUY AND GREAT SURFER. HE GOT ONE OF THE BIGGEST WAVES THIS WINTER OUT AT LOG CABINS. IT WAS PROBABLY 35 FEET!
THIS WAVE WAS ONE OF THE SETS THAT MORNING AND I KNOW THAT DAVE DID NOT SEE ME BECAUSE I SAW HIS HEAD DOWN AND PADDLING HARD FOR THE WAVE. I THOUGHT THAT HE MAY HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO GET ON THE WAVE, THAT’S THE REASON I TOOK OFF. APPARENTLY DAVE GOT THE COVER OF SURFER ON THIS WAVE AND I WAS SO STOKED FOR HIM! I THOUGHT TO MY SELF THAT I’M GLAD HE GOT THE SHOT BECAUSE THAT IS HIS JOB BEING A PRO SURFER. ANYWAY DAVE CALLED ME BEFORE I GOT BACK TO THE OFFICE AND APOLOGIZED ABOUT THE WAVE AND I REALLY APPRECIATE HIS SINCERITY. I’M STOKED TO HAVE FRIENDS LIKE HIM!! ALOHA
P.S. I HOPE HE LETS ME GO ON A GOOD ONE!